This is a crochet pattern for my beginner-friendly baby diaper cover, Retro Chic. Discover what inspired me to design this pattern, the yarn I chose, and how to create this sweet crochet baby diaper cover.
This pattern is super versatile. You can use it as a cute summer diaper cover or as winter pants. With colors like this, it looks so happy, and I know you can’t wait to try it out.
The pattern is suitable for beginners, but I wouldn’t recommend it for someone working with a hook for the first time. The stitches used in the pattern are pretty basic crochet stitches; however, making two things, in our case two ribbings for the leg holes, is something that I would consider more challenging. Why? Simply because they have to be the same size. If you are still willing to give it a try, be gentle and kind to yourself, and instead of making just two ribbings, create a third one if you see they are not the same size. That is ok. Too. We all are just learning.
The diaper cover can be made with just one color of yarn; however, I think changing colors adds more style and charm.
The pattern is made from the top down. Start with the ribbing, then the main part, the part between the legs, and finally the ribbing for the legs.
The biggest challenge was the ribbing around the waist area. What makes it so special is that the ribbing is actually adjustable. Yes! It’s made as a tube joined together in a circle or ring. It has two tiny holes on the side so that we can insert the chain, twisted cord, or ribbon.
Materials
YARN: I was using two yarn weights; DK weight for the ribbings and a small piece on the main part and Aran weight yarn for most of the work done on the main area, and the chain that goes around the waist. DK weight 100% cotton yarn (Paintbox Yarns Cotton DK (HERE!) – one skein of Daffodil Yellow (422)) and Aran weight 100% cotton yarn (Paintbox Yarns Cotton Aran (HERE!) – one skein of each: Banana Cream (621), Sky Blue (639), Rose Red (614).
CROCHET HOOKS: 3.0 mm (D/3) and 4.0 mm (G/6)
YOU WILL ALSO NEED: a pair of scissors (HERE!), stitch markers (HERE!), a yarn needle (HERE!), safety pin.
Gauge
Work 9 sts and 9 rows in DC measure 5 x 5 cm or 2 x 2 in.
When you find a new crochet project that you would like to make, you usually want to start ASP. We all do. But please take some time and check the gauge. It might save your project!
Checking your gauge is a crucial step in making a new crochet/knit garment. It will help you achieve the right size of your finished item. Learn how to check your gaugeĀ here.
Abbreviations
This pattern is written in US crochet terms.
- St/Sts – stitch/stitches
- Ch – chain (How to VIDEO)
- Ss – slip stitch
- Sc – single crochet (How to VIDEO)
- Sc2tog – sc 2 together
- Sc3tog – sc 3 together
- Hdc – half double crochet (How to VIDEO)
- Hdc2tog – hdc 2 together
- Hdc3tog – hdc 3 together
- BLO – work into back loops only (How to VIDEO)
- DC – double crochet (gauge only!)
Pattern Notes
- Sizes: 0 ā 6 months (below) and 6 ā 12 months (PDF pattern).
- How to read a pattern: You can learn how to read a crochet pattern here.
- The pattern is written in US crochet terms.
- Skill level: Easy/Medium
- Measurements: WAIST 35 CM/ 13.75″, LENGTH 18 CM/ 7″
- Fit is meant to be comfortable, but not too loose.
PDF Pattern
The PDF crochet pattern is a great solution for those who prefer to work offline, need additional sizes, or just want to support my work. This beautifully designed PDF pattern is available in my shops on Etsy and Ravelry.
INSTRUCTIONS
Crochet Diaper Cover – Retro Chic
Please, read the instructions carefully. Don’t skip any parts of the pattern, and make sure you do not accidentally lose or add additional stitches to the pattern. That might affect the final look of your design.
The diaper cover is made from the waist down.
VIDEO
The instructions provided are a blend of crochet patterns and my personal notes, tips, and tricks, essentially everything I’ve learned while creating this pattern.
These baby pants may not be the easiest crochet project, but with the video tutorial and written instructions on my blog, you’ll learn the steps and techniques you need to complete the pattern.
The instructions are organized into a few simple steps for clarity, avoiding confusion between words and stitches.
We will begin with the ribbing around the waist. Then, we’ll move on to creating the first part of the main body. We’ll make the front and back sections of the main area separately and sew them together later. After that, we’ll create two identical smaller ribbings to attach around the leg openings.
Almost done! Our final step will be to make a long chain and thread it through the ribbing around the waist.
1. Ribbing
We will start with the larger ribbing. Take some yarn in a dark yellow color (I am using Daffodil Yellow (422)), a 3.0 mm crochet hook, and chain 15. Start in the 2nd ch from the hook and work in rows.
Row 1: Work 1 sc into each of the next 14 sts. Turn. = 14 sts.
From now on, work in BLO.
Row 2 – 34: Ch 1. Work 1 sc into each of next 14 sts. Turn. = 14 sts.
Row 35: Ch 1. Sc 3. Ch 1. Skip 1. Place a marker into the ch 1. Sc 10. Turn. = 14 sts.
Row 36 – 38: Ch 1. Work 1 sc into each of the next 14 sts. Turn. = 14 sts.
Row 39: Ch 1. Sc 3. Ch 1. Skip 1. Place a marker into the ch 1. Sc 10. Turn. = 14sts.
Row 40 – 66: Ch 1. Work 1 sc into each of the next 14 sts. Turn. = 14 sts.
Do not cut the yarn just yet.
Join both ends of the ribbing together with a simple row of ss. Use one loop only! Do not cut the yarn.
Now fold the ribbing in half, longwise. Align both ends of the ribbing and continue with the main part. Make sure the stitch markers are on the outer side of the ribbing when you fold it in half. Donāt crochet stitch markers inside the ribbing.
2. Main Part
Change the size of the crochet hook from 3.0 mm to 4.0 mm crochet hook. From now you will be working in rounds.
Changing colors will be used in the following order: YELLOW, light yellow, BLUE, light yellow RED, light yellow.
Round 1: Continue with dark yellow yarn. Work 1 hdc into each st all the way around the ribbing. Make sure you are crocheting through both layers of the ribbing. Work 1 hdc into each of the next 66 sts. Join the round with a slip stitch made into the very first st of this round. = 66 sts.
Round 2 -3: Use a light yellow. Ch 1. Work 1 hdc into each of the next 66 sts. Join the round with a ss. = 66 sts.
Round 4: Use blue yarn. Ch 1. Work 1 sc into each of the next 66 sts. Join the round with a ss. = 66 sts.
Round 5 -6: Use a light yellow. Ch 1. Work 1 hdc into each of the next 66 sts. Join the round with a ss. = 66 sts.
Round 7: Use red yarn. Ch 1. Work 1 sc into each of next 66 sts. Join the round with a ss. = 66 sts.
Round 8 -9: Use a light yellow. Ch 1. Work 1 hdc into each of the next 66 sts. Join the round with a ss. = 66 sts.
Round 10: Use dark yellow yarn. Ch 1. Work 1 sc into each of the next 66 sts. Join the round with a ss. = 66 sts.
Round 11: Change to light yellow. Ch 1. Work 1 sc into each of next 66 sts. Join the round with a ss. = 66 sts.
Fasten off.
Take 4 stitch markers and use two to mark 30 sts on the front (Front Part) and two stitch markers to mark 36 sts on the back (Back Part). From now on work in rows.
I found out that the joining sts at the beginning of the row made with dark yellow, blue, or red yarn donāt look very nice, even when I turn the row. Thatās why I will cut the yarn. I will move back to the beginning of the previous row and I will join the yarn again and start with stitch one.
3. Front Lower Part
Row 1: Use the light yellow yarn. Place the item in front of you, you facing the front side. Insert the hook into the marked stitch on your left. Ch 1. Start in the same. Hdc3tog. Hdc 24. Hdc3tog. Fasten off, start in the first. = 26 sts.
Row 2: Use blue yarn. Ch 1. Start in the same. Sc3tog. Sc 20. Sc3tog. Cut the yarn and fasten off. = 22 sts.
Row 3: Use the light yellow yarn. Ch 1. Hdc3tog. Hdc 16. Hdc3tog. You can turn the row, because the next row will be made with the same yarn. Do not cut the yarn. = 18 sts.
Row 4: Use the light yellow yarn. Ch 1. Hdc2tog. Hdc 14. Hdc2tog. Cut the yarn and fasten off, start in the first. = 16 sts.
Row 5: Use red. Ch 1. Sc2tog. Sc 12. Sc2tog. Cut the yarn and fasten off, start in the first. = 14 sts.
Continue working in rows. Turn after each row. Continue the same color pattern: two rows of light yellow, one row of dark yellow, two rows of light yellow, one row of blue, two rows of light yellow one row of red, and so on.
Row 6 -11: Ch 1. Start in the same. Work 1 hdc into each of the next 14 sts. = 14 sts.
Row 12: Ch 1. Work 2 hdc into the first one. Hdc 12. Work 2 hdc into the last one. = 16 sts.
Cut the yarn and fasten off. Leave a long tail for sewing.
4. Back
Work in rows. Use the same technique as in the first few rows of the front part; cut the yarn and start the new row, but do not turn the row.
Row 1: Use the light yellow yarn. Place the item in front of you, you facing the front side. Insert the hook into the marked stitch on your right. Ch 1. Start in the same. Hdc2tog. Hdc 32. Hdc2tog. Fasten off. = 34 sts.
Row 2: Use blue yarn. Ch 1. Start in the same. Sc2tog. Sc 30. Sc2tog. Cut the yarn and fasten off. = 32 sts.
Row 3: Use the light yellow yarn. Ch 1. Hdc2tog. Hdc 28. Hdc2tog. You can turn the row because the next row will be made with the same yarn. Do not cut the yarn. = 30 sts.
Row 4: Use the light yellow yarn. Ch 1. Hdc2tog. Hdc 26. Hdc2tog. Cut the yarn and fasten off. = 28 sts.
Row 5: Use the red yarn. Ch 1. Sc2tog. Sc 24. Sc2tog. Cut the yarn and fasten off. = 26 sts.
Row 6: Use the light yellow yarn. Ch 1. Hdc2tog. Hdc 22. Hdc2tog. You can turn the row because the next row will be made with the same yarn. Do not cut the yarn. = 24 sts.
Row 7: Use the light yellow yarn. Ch 1. Hdc2tog. Hdc 20. Hdc2tog. Cut the yarn and fasten off. = 22 sts.
Row 8: Use the dark yellow. Ch 1. Sc2tog. Sc 18. Sc2tog. Cut the yarn and fasten off. = 20 sts.
Row 9: Use the light yellow yarn. Ch 1. Hdc2tog. Hdc 16. Hdc2tog. You can turn the row because the next row will be made with the same yarn. Do not cut the yarn. = 18 sts.
Row 10: Use the light yellow yarn. Ch 1. Hdc3tog. Hdc 12. Hdc3tog. Cut the yarn and fasten off. = 14 sts.
Turn the pants wrong side out. Align all 14 sts on the front and back part and sew them together using the yarn needle, yarn tail, and your favorite sewing technique. Mine is a blanket stitch.
5. Ribbing – Legs
Take a DK weight yarn and 3.0 mm crochet hook and create a foundation ch of 9. Start in the 2nd ch from the hook and work in rows.
Row 1: Work 1 sc into each of the next 8 sts. Turn. = 8 sts.
From now on work in BLO.
Row 2 – 41: Ch 1. Work 1 sc into each of the next 8 sts. Turn. = 8 sts.
Do not cut the yarn just yet. Join both ends of the ribbing together with a simple row of ss (use FLO or BLO only). Fold the ribbing on half, longwise. Align both ends of the ribbing. The same as we sis on the ribbing around the waist area.
Round 1: Work 1 sc into each st all the way around the ribbing. Make sure you are crocheting through both layers of the ribbing. Work 1sc into each of the next 41 rows. Join the round with a ss. = 41 sts.
Leave a long tail for sewing.
You will need two for each leg one.
Turn the pants wrong side out. Insert the ribbing into the leg hole; the round of sc sts has to be close to the leg hole edge.
Sew the ribbing around the leg hole using the yarn needle, yarn end, and the blanket stitch. Repeat the steps for the second leg, turn the pants right side out and you are almost done.
6. Cord
Take a small amount of light yellow yarn and make a chain of 110. Cut the yarn and pull the loop through. Make a knot on both sides of the chain. Insert the chain into the ribbing:
1. Take a chain, attach the safety pin to one end.
2. Insert the chain into one of the holes in the ribbing.
3. Pass the safety pin and chain all the way around until you reach the second hole on the ribbing.
4. Pull the safety pin and the chain through the hole.
5. Full both ends of the chain to get the even amount of chain/cord on both sides.
6. If the chain is too long, make a knot on the desired length and cut the rest of the chain.
Congratulation! Your adorable baby pants are now complete. Make sure you share your creations using Croby patterns with me on Instagram using #crobypattern, so I can see them and give them a big like. š
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