This is a crochet pattern for my beginner-friendly baby vest – Little Granny Vest. Discover what inspired me to design this pattern, the yarn I chose, and how to create the perfect baby booties.
FREE PATTERN: Keep scrolling for the FREE version of this pattern.
PRINTABLE PDF: Get a beautifully designed, print-friendly PDF version of this pattern from Ravelry or Etsy.
There is something so special about a simple granny square vest. It feels timeless, playful, and full of charm, and this little baby version was inspired by a project I recently made for myself.
Not long ago, I crocheted a granny square vest in adult size and shared the process in a vlog. I fell in love with it right away, especially with the beautiful color combination and the simple shape. And because I have spent so much of my crochet journey designing baby patterns, I just knew I had to make a tiny version too.
So this Little Granny Vest was created — a soft and sweet baby crochet granny square vest made from two granny squares, joined at the straps, and finished with buttons on both sides to make dressing a little easier.
In this blog post, I will show you how to make the 0–6 months size step by step. You will also find the video tutorial here, and if you would like the printable PDF pattern, it includes the 6–12 months size too.
About The Pattern
The Little Granny Vest is a simple baby vest pattern made from two granny squares, with soft edging and button closures on both sides. I love how such a classic crochet motif can turn into a piece that feels both timeless and useful.
It is light, comfortable, and easy to layer, which makes it a lovely little garment for babies. The buttons on the sides are not just a cute detail, but also make dressing much easier. It is one of those small projects that looks special, feels practical, and gives you plenty of room to play with color.
Materials
YARN: DK weight yarn – Cotton Light in colors 21 (light beige) – 3 skeins, 35 (rust) – 2 skeins, 36 (mustard) – 1 skein.
CROCHET HOOK: 5 mm crochet hook or size to obtain the gauge.
YOU WILL ALSO NEED: scissors, 6 buttons (1.2 cm in diameter), yarn needle and stitch markers.
Gauge
Work first 3 rounds on the granny square to match the gauge. You need to get an 8 x 8 cm (3.15 x 3.15 inches) square to match my gauge.
Abbreviations
- st/sts – stitch/ stitches
- Ch – chain
- Sc – single crochet
- Hdc – half double crochet
- Dc – double crochet
- Sc2tog – single crochet two together
Special Stitches
Corner
Working 3 dc sts, 2 chains, and 3 dc sts into the ch 2 space from the round below.
This is a group of stitches that will be repeated throughout the pattern.
Side Cluster
A group of stitches that will be made into the space between cluster stitches (3 dc sts) from the round below.
It looks similar to the corner, only that it is half the size.
Pattern Notes
- For this crochet baby sweater pattern, you will need to know basic crochet stitches (sc, ss, and hdc).
- The chain at the beginning of the round, also called the turning chain, does not count as a stitch unless otherwise stated.
- Work everything in ( ) as a group and repeat it as many times as written in the pattern.
- All rows/rounds start in the first stitch of the row/round unless otherwise stated.
- This crochet pattern is written mainly in rounds. The exceptions are the ribbings around the yoke, waist, and wrists. Join each round with a slip stitch (ss) made into the first stitch of the round.
- Slip stitch does not count as a stitch in the pattern unless otherwise stated.
- The pattern for larger sizes is written in the [ ].
- If the number is written before the stitch: 3 hdc = work 3 hdc sts into the same stitch.
- If the number is written after the stitch: hdc 3 = work 1 hdc into each of the next 3 sts.
- The number of stitches at the end of each row/round is the total number of stitches in that row/round.
- The pattern is written in US crochet terms.
Measurements
- 0 – 6 months – chest across 28 cm (11 inches), from top to bottom – 25 cm (9.8 inches)- available here in this blog post.
- 6 – 12 months – chest across 34 cm (13.4 inches), from top to bottom – 31 cm (12.2 inches) – available in the PDF pattern only.
Save For Later (Pinterest!)
Pin the project to your favorite Pinterest board and save it for later when you have the right yarn, more time, or simply because your crochet hooks are way too busy right now. ❤️
PDF Crochet Pattern
The PDF crochet pattern is a great solution for those who prefer to work offline, need additional sizes, or just want to support my work. This beautifully designed PDF pattern can be found in shops on Etsy and Ravelry.
You can also join me on Patreon. The creative bug membership offers a new pattern every month and a peek behind the scenes at how the pattern was made, what materials I used, and why.
NSTRUCTIONS
Crochet Baby Vest Pattern – Little Granny Vest
Please, read the instructions carefully. Don’t skip any parts of the pattern, and make sure you do not accidentally lose or add additional stitches to the pattern. That might affect the final look of your design.
This little vest begins with two granny squares, worked separately to create the front and back panels. Once the squares are ready, they are joined at the shoulders, and the vest’s shape starts to come together very quickly.
To finish the piece, you will add simple edging around the openings and attach buttons on both sides. The construction is easy to follow and very satisfying, turning two classic crochet squares into a sweet and practical baby vest.
VIDEO
Instructions
Front Panel
We will be working in rounds. After each round, join the round with a slip stitch.
We will start in the center of the square and work towards the outside. Every row will be done with a different color. Mine is done in the following order: rust, mustard, light beige.
Remember:
- The turning chain ch 2 at the beginning of the round does not count as 1 dc.
- In each corner, work 3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc.
- Each side space is 3 dc.
- Join each round with a ss st.
Take the color of your choice (I start with rust) and create a magic loop. You can also work 3 chains and join those with a slip stitch instead.
Round 1 (Rust): Ch 2. Work (3 dc, ch 2) 4 times. Join the round with ss.
Note: I cut the yarn after each round and do not take it with me as I work the next round, which gives me cleaner fabric on the inside and prevents small fingers from catching on the loops.
Round 2 (Mustard): Start in any of the corners. Ch 2. Work (3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) into the corner ch-2 space from the round below. Repeat that three more times. Join the round with a ss.
Round 3 (Light Beige): Start in any of the corners. Ch 2. Work (3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) into the corner ch-2 space. Work 3 dc sts into the space between the two corners from the round below (into the side!). Repeat that three more times.
Join the round with a slip stitch.
Continue working in rounds until you reach round 8.
Round-by-round guide:
Remember, corners are always 3dc, ch 2, 3 dc, and sides are always 3 dc into the space below.
Round 4: work 2 side clusters on each side
Round 5: work 3 side clusters on each side
Round 6: work 4 side clusters on each side
Round 7: work 5 side clusters on each side
Round 8: work 6 side clusters on each side
Now we are going to work on the round that will help us build the straps on the top and the opening for the head.
Take two stitch markers and insert them into the spaces right before the corners in the row below.
Now take the color of your choice (mine is light beige) and start the row in the right-marked space, with the front panel’s nicer side facing up.
Row 9: Attach the yarn with ch 2 (this is just a turning chain). Work 2 dc into the same st.
Work into the corner (3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc). Repeat 3 dc seven times. Repeat the corner and the side two more times.
Work into the last corner (3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc). Finish with the 2 dc sts into the next space on the side. Cut the yarna nd fasten off.
Flaps on the sides
The front panel is facing nicer side up.
Right flap
Start in the right bottom corner (ch 2 space). Work sts evenly up. After working your first st into the corner, instead of working into spaces between cluster sts work directly into the sts from the round below.
Row 1: Attach the yarn with ch 1. Start in the same. Work 1 hdc into that same space. From here on follow the stitches, not spaces. Work 1 hdc into each of the next 13 sts.
Row 2: Ch 1. Turn. Work 1 sc into each of the next 14. = 14 sts.
Row 3: Ch 1. Turn. This is the row with buttonholes. Sc 1. Repat (Skip 2. Sc 3.) two times. Skip 2. Sc 1. = 14 sts.
Row 4: Ch 1. Turn. Hdc 14. = 14 sts.
Cut and fasten off.
Left Flap
Now jump on the other side and work from top down. Cunt 14 sts including the one in the corner (bottom). Use those 14 sts for the flap. Work first 13 sts directly into the sts from the round below. Work the last st into the corner (ch 2 space).
Row 1: Attach the yarn with ch 1. Start in the same. Work 1 hdc into that same space. From here on follow the stitches, not spaces. Work 1 hdc into each of the next 13 sts.
Row 2: Ch 1. Turn. Work 1 sc into each of the next 14. = 14 sts.
Row 3: Ch 1. Turn. This is the row with buttonholes. Sc 1. Repat (Skip 2. Sc 3.) two times. Skip 2. Sc 1. = 14 sts.
Row 4: Ch 1. Turn. Hdc 14. = 14 sts.
Cut and fasten off.
Back Panel
We will be working in rounds. After each round, join the round with a slip stitch.
We will start in the center of the square and work towards the outside. All the rounds will be done with the same color.
Remember:
- The turning chain ch 2 at the beginning of the round does not count as 1 dc.
- In each corner, work 3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc.
- Each side space is 3 dc.
- Join each round with a ss st.
Choose a color (mine is light beige) and create a magic loop. You can also work 3 chains and join those with a slip stitch instead.
Round 1: Ch 2. Work (3 dc, ch 2) 4 times. Join the round with ss.
Round 2: Start in any of the corners. Ch 2. Work (3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) into the corner ch-2 space from the round below. Repeat that three more times. Join the round with a ss.
Round 3: Ch 2. Start in any of the corners. Ch 2. Work (3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) into the corner ch-2 space. Work 3 dc sts into the space between the two corners from the round below (into the side!). Repeat that three more times.
Continue working in rounds until you reach round 9.
Round-by-round guide:
Remember, corners are always 3dc, ch 2, 3 dc, and sides are always 3 dc into the space below.
Round 4: work 2 side clusters on each side
Round 5: work 3 side clusters on each side
Round 6: work 4 side clusters on each side
Round 7: work 5 side clusters on each side
Round 8: work 6 side clusters on each side
Round 9: work 7 side clusters on each side
Flaps on the sides
The front panel is facing nicer side up.
Right flap
Start in the right bottom corner (ch 2 space). Work sts evenly up. After working your first st into the corner, instead of working into spaces between cluster sts work directly into the sts from the round below.
Row 1: Attach the yarn with ch 1. Start in the same. Work 1 hdc into that same space. From here on, follow the stitches, not spaces. Work 1 hdc into each of the next 13 sts.
Row 2: Ch 1. Turn. Work 1 sc into each of the next 14. = 14 sts.
Row 3: Ch 1. Turn. Work 1 sc into each of the next 14. = 14 sts.
Row 4: Ch 1. Turn. Hdc 14. = 14 sts.
Cut and fasten off.
Left Flap
Now jump on the other side and work from top down. Cunt 14 sts including the one in the corner (bottom). Use those 14 sts for the flap. Work first 13 sts directly into the sts from the round below. Work the last st into the corner (ch 2 space).
Row 1: Attach the yarn with ch 1. Start in the same. Work 1 hdc into that same space. From here on follow the stitches, not spaces. Work 1 hdc into each of the next 13 sts.
Row 2: Ch 1. Turn. Work 1 sc into each of the next 14. = 14 sts.
Row 3: Ch 1. Turn. Work 1 sc into each of the next 14. = 14 sts.
Row 4: Ch 1. Turn. Hdc 14. = 14 sts.
Cut and fasten off.
STRAPS
At the top of the front panel, the straps should be clearly visible. Each strap is approximately 6 stitches wide.
Align the front and back panels neatly, ensuring all edges match. Be sure to join the straps on the inner side of the sweater.
You can join the straps in two ways: with a yarn needle or with a crochet hook. I chose to use a crochet hook. Starting in the corner, I worked a few single crochet stitches across, from one end of the strap to the other.
Repeat the same steps for the second strap.
Neckline
First, we are going to create an edging around the neckline. Attach the color of your choice (mine, rust) in the seam (on the strap where the front and the back panel meet) and crochet single crochet stitches evenly all around the neckline. Join the round with a slip stitch. Cut the yarn and fasten off.
Main Edging
I will start in the seam on the bottom front edge where the main front panel and the right flap meet and continue all the way around back to the first stitch.
A few things to remember:
- Work hdc sts along the bottom front and back edge; the rest of the stitches are just simple sc sts.
- The edges between the bottom edge and the side edge are 2 hdc, ch 1, 2 sc (transition from the bottom edge to the side) or 2 sc, ch 1, 2 hdc (transition from the side to the bottom edge).
My exact stitch count:
Attach the yarn with ch 1. Start in the same st. Work 1 hdc into each of the next 4 sts.
Work into the corner 2 hdc, ch 1, 2 sc.
Work 1 sc into each of the next 12 sts.
Work into the corner 2 sc, ch 1, 2 sc.
Work 1 sc into next 2 sts.
Join next 2 sts with a sc2tog st.
Work 1 sc into each of the next (aprox) 28 sts.
Join next 2 sts with a sc2tog st.
Work 1 sc into next 2 sts.
Work into the corner 2 sc, ch 1, 2 sc.
Work 1 sc into each of the next 12 sts.
Work into the corner 2 sc, ch 1 and 2 hdc sts.
Work 1 hdc into each of the next (aprox) 36 sts.
Work into the corner 2 hdc, ch 1 and 2 sc sts.
Work 1 sc into each of the next 12 sts.
Work into the corner 2 sc, ch 1, 2 sc.
Work 1 sc into next 2 sts.
Join next 2 sts with a sc2tog st.
Work 1 sc into each of the next (aprox) 28 sts.
Join next 2 sts with a sc2tog st.
Work 1 sc into next 2 sts.
Work into the corner 2 sc, ch 1, 2 sc.
Work 1 sc into each of the next 12 sts.
Work into the corner 2 sc, ch 1 and 2 hdc sts.
Work 1 hdc into each of the next (aprox) 32 sts.
Join the round with a slip stitch.
Cut the yarn and fasten off.
BUTTONS
The final step is to attach the buttons. You will need a total of six buttons, three for each side flap. Ensure the buttons fit through the buttonholes. Attach them to the nicer side of the back panel, ensuring they align precisely with the buttonholes on the opposite flap (three buttons on each flap).
DID YOU TRY OUT THIS PATTERN?
I’d love to know how it turned out! Please let me know by leaving a comment below. Or snap a photo and share it on Instagram. Be sure to tag me @crobypatterns.
DISCLAMER
The content you find (including crochet patterns) here on this website, crobypatterns.com, is a property of Croby Patterns. Do not modify, copy, sell or share any parts of the website. For more information, read the TERMS OF USE page and FAQ. Thank you!
