Seashell Crochet Baby Romper

This is a crochet pattern for my easy beginner-friendly baby romper – Seashell. Find out what inspired me to design this pattern, what yarn did I choose and learn all the tricks on how to create a perfect baby romper.

You can find the free instructions below. If you want to support my work or need additional sizes, please consider purchasing the ad-free, printable PDF that you can find here.

It has been quite a while since I wrote my very first pattern and tutorial for my blog. At that time, I’ve tried so hard to write and design my patterns the best as I could with the materials and photo equipment I had. I remember that I was so excited and happy to share every little detail and piece of information I could and hoped the pattern would be helpful and educational.

I’ve learned so much since then. I’ve designed a system that I follow when I write my patterns. Making sure I don’t miss anything. Plus, I love when patterns look similar, so the maker who uses them already knows how to read the instructions and where to find the needed information.

Last year I started a big project that is happening and will be happening behind the scenes for a while. My goal is to update every pattern in my pattern collection and make it even more modern, educational, and easy to use.

This baby romper was on my list for quite some time now. It used to be one of my premium patterns, but I’ve decided to share it here on my blog instead. I thought it would be a nice addition to my free Seashell collection of patterns. I have three now and much more to come.

The pattern itself is pretty simple. It starts on the back and is made from back to front. Once the lower part is complete, we start working on an area around the waist and chest. The very last step are ribbings, straps, and buttons and the romper is complete.

Video Tutorial

Materials

YARN: 3 skeins of Yarn and Colors EPIC 100% cotton yarn in color 47 (Old Pink) You can shop for more colors here.

CROCHET HOOK: 4.5 mm or 7 (US) crochet hook or the size needed to obtain the gauge. You can find the hook I am using in the tutorial HERE.

YOU WILL ALSO NEED: a bunch of stitch markers, a tapestry needle, a pair of scissors and two buttons (2.5 mm or 1 inch in diameter).

Gauge

GAUGE:  Work 8 stitches and 4 rows in DC using a 4.5 mm crochet hook and an Aran weight yarn to measure 5 x 5 cm (2 x 2 inches).

When you find a new crochet project that you would like to make, you usually want to start ASAP. We all do. But please take some time and check the gauge. It might save your project!

Checking the gauge is a crucial step in the process of making a new crochet/knit garment. It will help you achieve the right size of your finish item. Learn how to check your gauge here.

Stitches and Abbreviations

• Sst/sts – stitch/stitches
•  ch – chain
•  ss – slip stitch
• sc – single crochet
• hdc – half double crochet
• hdc2tog – join 2 hdc sts together
• hdc3tog – join 3 hdc sts together
• dc – double crochet
• dc2tog – join 2 dc sts together
• dc3tog – join 3 dc sts together
• FPhdc – front post half double crochet
• BPhdc – back post half double crochet

Special Techniques

SHELL STITCH

A shell stitch is a group of stitches made into the same base. Because all of them are made into the same stitch, things get a little bit crowdy. That forces the top of the stitch to spread into a shell looking shape.

This shell stitch is made of 5 stitches: two double crochet stitches, one chain, and another two double crochet stitches.

Each shell stitch, with and exception of the first row in a string of rows, is made into the chain from the shell below.

Pattern Notes

• Sizes: The pattern is written in two sizes 0 – 6 months (find the pattern below!) and 6 – 12 months (PDF pattern only – here)

• How to read a pattern: Not sure how? Learn here.

• The pattern is written in US crochet terms.

• Skill level: Easy/Medium

• Measurements (0 – 6 months): around the chest 44 cm or 17.3 inches and length (from top to bottom) is 37 cm or 14.5 inches.

• Fit is meant to be comfortable. But still close to the body.

PDF Pattern

The PDF crochet pattern is a great solution for those who prefer to work offline, need additional sizes of the pattern, or just want to support my work. This beautifully designed PDF pattern can be found in shops on Etsy, Ravelry, and Love Crafts.

* This PDF instructions include one additional size. The fee compensates for the ad revenue I would make if you had to visit the site to access the instructions.

Instructions

Crochet Baby Romper Pattern – Seashell

The pattern for crochet baby romper is written in a few simple steps:

• back lower part
• front lower part
• body
• ribbings (top and legholes)
• straps
• buttons

Please, read the instructions carefully. Don’t skip any parts of the pattern and make sure you do not accidentally lose or add additional stitches to the pattern. That might affect the final look of your design.

BACK LOWER PART

We are going to start with the back lower part of the romper.

Take the yarn and 4.5 mm crochet hook and create a foundation chain made of 35 chains.

Row 1: Start in the 3rd chain from the hook. Dc2tog. Work 1 dc into each of the next 29. Dc2tog. Ch 2. Turn. = 31 sts.

STITCH MARKERS – I recommend using stitch markers at the beginning of each row. I also recommend inserting a stitch marker into the first and 33rd chain of your foundation chain. Those two chains will show you places where you will connect the front and back lower part of the romper and slowly start working on the rest of the romper.

Row 2: Dc2tog. Work 1 dc into each of the next 27. Dc2tog. Ch 2. Turn. = 29 sts.

Row 3: Dc3tog. Work 1 dc into each of the next 23. Dc3tog. Ch 2. Turn. = 25 sts.

Row 4: Dc3tog. Work 1 dc into each of the next 19. Dc3tog. Ch 2. Turn. = 21 sts.

Row 5: Dc2tog. Work 1 dc into each of the next 17. Dc2tog. Ch 2. Turn. = 19 sts.

Row 6: Dc2tog. Work 1 dc into each of net 15. Dc2tog. Ch 2. Turn. = 17 sts.

Row 7: Dc2tog. Work 1 dc into each of net 13. Dc2tog. Ch 2. Turn. = 15 sts.

Row 8: Dc2tog. Work 1 dc into each of net 11. Dc2tog. Ch 2. Turn. = 13 sts.

FRONT LOWER PART

Row 9: Work 1 dc into each of the next 13 sts. Ch 1 and turn your work. = 13 sts.

Row 10 – 14: Work 1 hdc into each of the next 13 sts. Ch 1. Turn. = 13 sts.

Row 15: Work 2 dc into the same st. Skip 2, work 2 dc, ch 1 and 2 dc again into the same st. skip 2. From now on we will call this set of sts Shell stitch! Work 1 dc into the next. Shell stitch. Work 2 dc into the same st. Ch 2. Turn. = 15 sts.

Row 16: Work 2 dc into the same st. FPdc. Create a shell stitch. FPdc. Create a shell stitch. FPdc. Work 2 dc into the last one. Ch 2. Turn = 17 sts.

Row 17: Work 2 dc into the first one. 1 dc into the next st. BPdc. Create a shell stitch. BPdc. Create a shell stitch. BPdc. Work 1 dc into the next st. Create 2 dc sts into the last one. Ch 2. Turn. = 19 [19] sts.

Row 18: Work 3 dc into the first one. 1 dc into each of the next 2. FPdc. Create a shell stitch. FPdc. Create a shell stitch. FPdc. 1 dc into each of the next 2. Work 3 dc into the last one. Ch 2. Turn. = 23 sts.

Row 19: Work 3 dc into the first one. 1 dc into each of the next 4. BPdc. Create a shell stitch. BPdc. Create a shell stitch. BPdc. 1 dc into each of the next 4. Work 3 dc into the last one. Ch 2. Turn. = 27 sts.

Row 20: Work 4 dc sts into the first one. 1 dc into each of the next 6 sts. FPdc. Create a shell stitch. FPdc. Create a shell stitch. FPdc. 1 dc into each of the next 6 sts. Work 4 dc sts into the last one. Ch 2. Turn. = 33 sts.

BODY

In the next step, we will join both ends of the lower part together and create a round. This means we will join it with a slip stitch (doesn’t count as a stitch in the pattern. Make sure you skip it!)

Turn after each round to keep the look of the shell stitch pattern even throughout the whole romper.

Round 21: Work 1 dc into each of the next 10 sts. BPdc. Create a shell stitch. BPdc. Create a shell stitch. BPdc. Work 1 dc into each of the next 10 sts. Now pick up the loop on the other end of the panel (chain on the foundation chain marked with a stitch marker). Work 1 dc into each of the next 33 sts. Finish the round with a slip stitch made into the very first stitch of the round. Ss. Turn. Ch 2. = 66 sts.

Round 22: Work 1 dc into each of the next 43 sts. FPdc. Create a shell stitch. FPdc. Create a shell stitch. FPdc. Work 1 dc into each of the next 10 sts. Ss. Turn. Ch 2. = 66 sts.

Round 23: Work 1 dc into each of the next 10 sts. BPdc. Create a shell stitch. BPdc. Create a shell stitch. BPdc. Work 1 dc into each of the next 43 sts. Ss. Turn. Ch 2. = 66 sts.

Additional rounds:

• 0 – 6 months: repeat rounds 22 and 23 four more times.

Don’t cut the yarn. Continue with the ribbing.

RIBBINGS

Now we are going to create three ribbings; one around the chest area and two around the leg holes.

RIBBING – Chest

Work in rounds. After each round join the round with a slip stitch (doesn’t count as a stitch in the pattern!).

Round 1: Work 1 hdc into each of the next 66 sts. Ss. Ch 1 and turn. = 66 sts.

Round 2: Repeat (work 1 FPhdc around the first one, 1 BPhdc around the next) 33 times. Join with ss. Ch 1. Turn. = 66 sts.

Repeat the round 2 one more time.

Cut the yarn and fasten off.

RIBBING – Leg

Work in rounds. After each round join the round with a slip stitch).

Start anywhere around the leghole. I usually start on the top – hip.

Join both sts with a simple chain 1.

Round 1: Work sc sts evenly around the leghole. Work 2 sc into each row of dc sts. Work 1 sc into the first and 2 sc sts into the next row of hdc sts (that will give you 1 and a half stitch per row of hdc sts). That should give you 34 sts. Join the round with ss. Ch 1. Turn. = 34 sts.

Round 2: Repeat (work 1 FPhdc around the first one, 1 BPhdc around the next) 17 times. Join with ss. Ch 1. Turn. = 34 sts.

Repeat round 2 one more time.

Cut the yarn and fasten off.

Repeat the steps for the second leg.

STRAP

Take 4 stitch markers. Place the romper on a flat surface with the backside facing up. Find 2 sets of 5 sts in the center of the ribbing 6 sts apart.

Attach the yarn in one of the stitch markers and start crocheting towards the nearest marked stitch.

Work in rows. After each row ch 1. Do not turn your work.

Row 1 – 17:Work 1 hdc into each of the next 5 sts. = 5 sts.

BUTTONHOLE

Continue with the buttonhole. Ch 5. Attach the chain to the first st of row 17 with a slip stitch.

Turn your work and work 10 sc around the ch-5 space. Join with a slip stitch made into the side of row 17.

Repeat the steps for the second strap.

BUTTONS

The last step is to attach two buttons on the front part of the romper (ribbing) corresponding to the buttonholes.

I like to move the buttons a little bit towards armpits. But this is more of personal preference.

Hide the yarn tails between the stitches and your work is done!

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