Not every crocheter is a knitter and not every knitter is a crocheter. I can say for my self that I can crochet quite well, but knitting is a totally different dimension for me. I am familiar with basics, how to knit and purl and how to attach the yarn on my knitting needles, but that’s all I can do. I still hope that one day I will take the knitting needles and start practicing and learning new stitches, but for now, I am to occupy with crocheting. So much to learn and so much fun stuff to do.
There is so many beautiful patterns for knit socks, for babies, kids and adults, but I could not find so many crochet ones. That’s why I decided to make my own. I am so happy to share with you my new crochet pattern for baby socks. The pattern is made with a bit thinner yarn that I usually use. It is a Sport weight yarn. I bought it in so many of different colors, took my 3.0 mm crochet hook and started crocheting. I came up with this simple crochet tutorial available here as a written pattern, a video tutorial on my Youtube channel and for those who would like to have it as a PDF file, jump to my pattern store on Etsy.
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Here is what you will need for this project (These links are affiliate links. You don’t have to buy the products from here but I link them to make it easy for you guys to find them. Purchasing through this links earns me a small commission with no extra cost to you. So if you decide to purchase through them, know that you are awesome! Thanks! 🙂):
- YARN: For this pattern, I was using Sport weight yarn. It is a bit thinner than I usually use, but I bought a bunch of it for this project and I have to admit, I am obsessed. As always, it’s 100% cotton yarn and it comes in a variety of different colors. (HERE!)
- CROCHET HOOK: For this pattern, I was using a bit smaller crochet hook that goes perfectly with the yarn I choose. It’s from my collection (not mine, but from a collection of crochet hooks that I own LOL) of aluminum crochet hook with a simple silicone handle. It’s 3.0 mm or D/3 crochet hook. (HERE!)
- OTHER: And of course a yarn needle (HERE!), stitch markers (HERE!) and a pair of scissors (HERE!).
STITCHES AND ABBREVIATIONS
- Ch – chain
- Sc – single crochet
- Hdc – half double crochet
- Dc – double crochet
- DC2tog – double crochet 2 stitches together
- st/sts – stitch/stitches
- BLO – back loops only
- How to read a pattern: If the number is written before the stitch 3 hdc work 3 hdc into the same stitch. If the number is written after the stitch hdc 3, work hdc into next 3 stitches.
- Repeat what is written in the () as many times as it’s written right after the (). For an example: Repeat (2 hdc, hdc 1) 5 times. It means that you have to repeat the sequence work 2 hdc sts into the same st, 1 hdc into the next one 5 times. And you will get 5 additional sts by doing that.
- The chain at the beginning of the round/row does not count as a stitch unless otherwise stated in the pattern.
- The slip stitch is just a joining stitch and does not count as a stitch in my patterns.
- Use a stitch marker to mark your first stitch of the row/round.
- GAUGE: 13 sts and 8.5 rows in hdc measure 5 x 5 cm (2 x 2 inch) using 3.0 mm or D/3 crochet hook.
- SIZE: 0 – 6 months, 6 – 12 months (available in PDF only – HERE! – soon)
- The left and the right sock are identical.
- Share your finished items with me on social media using #crobypatterns.
INSTRUCTIONS – CROCHET BABY SOCKS
This pattern is made of 5 parts: toes, middle part, heel, the upper part and the ribbing. I choose two colors to make my tiny socks, but you can choose as many colors you want or make them in one color only. 🙂
Take some pink yarn and CH 7. Start in the 2nd ch from the hook. Work in rounds. After each round join the round with a ss made into the first stitch of the round. Ss does not count as a stitch in the pattern!
Round 1: Work 3 HDC into the first one. Work 1 HDC into next 4. Work 6 HDC into the last chain. Now continue on the opposite side. Work 1 HDC into next 4. Finish the round with 3 HDC sts into the last one. Join the round with a ss. = 20 sts.
Round 2: Ch 1. Start in the first. Work 1 HDC into the first one. Work 2 HDC sts into next two sts. Work 1 HDC into next 4 sts. 2 HDC into next 2. Work 1 HDC into next 2. Work 2 HDC into next 2 sts. Work 1 HDC into next 4 sts. 2 HDC into next 2. Finish the round with 1 HDC into the last one. Skip the ss from the previous round and join this round with a new ss. = 28 sts.
Round 3: Ch 1. Start in the first. Work 1 HDC into next 28 sts. = 28 sts.
Take a small amount of beige yarn and join it with a CH 1. Start in the same st. Make sure you skip the ss from the previous round. If not, you will end up this round with one additional stitch!
Round 1 – 6: Work 1 HDC into next 28 sts. = 28 sts.
This part is made as separate part and will be attached to the middle part when it’s done. Take some pink yarn and create a magic ring. Secure the magic ring with CH 1.
Round 1: Work 8 HDC sts into the magic ring. Join with ss. = 8 sts.
Round 2: Ch 1. Work 2 HDC sts into each stitch all the way around. Skip the ss from the previous round and join the round with a new ss. = 16 sts.
Round 3: Ch 1. Work 1 HDC into each of next 7 sts. Work 1 HDC, 1 CH and 1 HDC into the same st. Work 1 HDC into next 7 sts. Work 1 HDC, 1 CH and 1 HDC into the same st. Join the round with a ss. = 20 sts.
Round 4: Ch 1. Work 1 HDC into next 8 sts. Work 1 HDC, 1 CH and 1 HDC into the same st. Work 1 HDC into next 9 sts. Work 1 HDC, 1 CH and 1 HDC into the same st. Work 1 HDC into the last one. Join the round with a ss. = 24 sts.
Round 5: Work 1 HDC into next 9 sts. Work 1 HDC, 1 CH and 1 HDC into the same st. Work 1 HDC into next 11 sts. Work 1 HDC, 1 CH and 1 HDC into the same st. Work 1 HDC into last two sts. Join the round with a ss. = 28 sts.
ASSEMBLING: Mark 15 sts on the middle part of the sock and attach the heel to those 15 sts using a small amount of yarn and a needle.
The upper part is made with beige yarn. Now that the heel is attached to the middle part, insert the hook into the last round of the middle part, right into to the stitch where you attached the heel (WATCH THE VIDEO!). Continue crocheting on the top of the middle part than the heel and join the round with a ss.
Round 1: Work 1 HDC into next 28 sts. Join with ss. = 28 sts.
Round 2: Work 1 DC2TOG to join first two. Work 1 DC into next 11 sts. Join next two with a DC2TOG. Work 1 DC into next 13 sts. Join the round with a ss. = 26 sts.
This part is made separately and will be attached to the main part later. Take some pink yarn and chain 17. Start in the 2nd ch from the hook. Work in rows. After each row ch 1 and turn. Work into back loops only.
Row 1 – 26: BLO! Work 1 SC into next 16 sts. = 16 sts.
Fasten off. Leave a long tail for sewing. Hold both endings of ribbing together. Join both parts using the remaining yarn tail and a yarn needle. Now attach the ribbing to the main part of the sock. Make sure you are sewing on the inner side of the sock and that the part of the ribbing with joining sts is on the inner side of the sock as well.
Repeat all the steps for the 2nd sock and you are done!
This pattern is the property of Croby Patterns and is for your personal use only. The pattern or parts of it may not be reproduced, distributed or resold, translated, published or posted for sell or free on the internet or offline. You can sell finished items made from this pattern (Permission is not granted for mass production or factory manufacturing of any kind) but please clearly credit the design to Croby patterns so I will be able to continue creating new designs for you. Please provide a link to my blog crobypatterns.com. Thank you for respecting me and my work!